If one needed anymore proof of Brenden Newton’s newfound extremism (reported on in our new issue printing at the moment) then read this Hawaiian letter from Brazilian Magno Oliveira
My name is Magno Oliviera. I have finished in the world’s top 20 for the last three years. I’m writing to you to talk about some amazing experiences I’m having in this Hawaiian trip. Please excuse my broken English. The first day I arrived in Hawaii, was three weeks ago, the 9th of January, and Pipeline was big, not many people in the water and sets of 12-to-15 feet. It was this day, in the water, I met Brenden Newton. From that day on we became good friends and most of the time people would see us together all the time as if we were friends from long ago. A couple of days ago, Brenden took me to the airport to catch my flight back to Brazil, it was the 28th of February, my flight was scheduled to leave at 5:50 pm, as you all know one day before that the 27th of February, we had a tsunami alarm, and all the people went crazy, as result my flight was overbooked and I couldn’t fly back to Brasil. As soon as I figured out I couldn’t fly I called Brenden. 30 minutes later he was back at the airport, then he invited me to go on a trip to Maui. The next day we were flying to Maui at 5am to surf this swell that would be amazing for some breaks on that island. In the same plane, were Jeff Hubbard, Glen Sullivan, Jamie Obrien, Simon Romero. It was then that I realized how good the waves were going to be.
At 9 am we arrived at the final destination, Honolua Bay, one of the best rights in the world, and it was amazing. As we started to walk with our boards hiking down the hill to get to the beach, one huge angry looking local guy looks at Brenden and said: "hey, I know you, you are the guy that ran over me the other day at Pipe". Brenden then looks him in the eyes and says full of the confidence he usually speaks, "Yes, why?" The guy says, "Go, you guys have ten minutes of surfing until I use you as a launch ramp." We walked down the hill, and jumped off the rocks to start paddling to our first session in Maui. Honolua is a wave of three sections, the first one is where all the surfers sit to wait for the waves (because they intimidate the bodyboarders), and the second and the third section is a hollower section where the bodyboarders usually sit. Unfortunately this means that the surfers get all the good waves from the beginning section. We surfed for a little bit and then we saw that same guy. We were sitting on the outside, pretty much the only bodyboarders sitting there, and then this guy said to us: " You guys should go sit on the inside." Then Brenden says, " No, why should I sit on the inside?" The guy says, already mad, "Do you see any bodyboarder here? Go sit on in the inside. You and your fucking friend." There is actually only one bodyboarder that sits on the first section; he is a dropknee rider that apparently is a local. So Brenden says again, "No, I’ll stay here". The local surfer got closer to him and punched him in the head and said, “You should listen to what I’m saying.” Brenden replies, "Should I listen to you or to Jesus". Then even angrier the local said, "Go in or I’m going to kill you". Brenden was still in the same place where his was punched and with even more confidence he replies, “Kill me then, Jesus will raise me from the dead." The local who was probably the sheriff of that tribe of surfers couldn’t believe what he was seeing, being challenged in front of his crew by a boogieboarder, as they say here, with an Australian accent. I don’t know what was going through the local’s mind, but after that he didn’t say a word and we kept bodyboarding. What I saw as something very unusual, especially in Hawaii, where we are all treated as rats, where the local surfers rule their spots. It was very encouraging to see a bodyboarder standing firm and overcoming his fear, if there’s any fear still existing in Brenden. When we got out of the water, I said to Brenden, "You should call him to come out, I would go with you and we would kicked his arse" (we have learnt how to fight in Brasil). Then Brenden says, "No Magno, the fight here’s between Jesus and the Devil, not our punches. I love that guy, he doesn’t know what he’s doing." Today we surfed a new wave just me and him, a wave that breaks in front of a resort, a gnarly right hander, 4-6 foot breaking on a dry reef, as soon as we got out of the water and walked towards our car, a group of tourists applauded us, saying, “Don’t you get scared?” Brenden shouts out as they were far away, "There’s no fear in perfect love.” They invited us to their hot tub and bought us a beer. The hot tub sits right next to the ocean so we relaxed, talked and watch the waves. I then came home and wrote this story. I hope you can publish this.
RSS Feed
Twitter




Um comentário:
clássico tudo isso... parabens pelo blog e principalmente pela historia inspiradora do magno.. abraço.. boas ondas.. paz a todos
Postar um comentário